Expédition hivernale au Nanga Parbat – 06/02/2012

INFOS PRESSE The North Face®

Ce matin, Simone Moro et Denis Urubko se sont mis en route pour atteindre le sommet du Nanga Parbat.

Ils ont trouvé énormément de neige et n’étaient pas sûrs de pouvoir continuer : ils ont dû rejoindre le camp n°1 (14h34 heure locale).

A 14h54 heure locale, Simone Moro a annoncé à Matteo Zanga au talkie-walkie qu’ils déposeraient leur matériel au Camp 1 et reviendraient au Base Camp. Les risques d’avalanches sont trop importants.

Retrouvez le journal de l’expédition 

Témoignages juste avant leur départ :
Simone :
‘We stayed at Base Camp today, we had half a meter of fresh snow and we were aware of the high avalanche risk. But we didn’t sit around and wait, we warmed up our engines: we went up to the glacier with our snowshoes to recreate the track. The old one had been covered by the fresh snow. Back to Base Camp we did a few other chores, shovel the snow off the tents, prepped the heli landing, added new soil to the muddy floor in the kitchen tent. All of this has been a phisiologic awakening for our bodies, since we now know that we will be setting off for the summit. We have been 11 days at Base Camp. I hope our acclimatization is not lost.
We will take with us only a walkie talkie, and it will be up to Matteo Zanga to update all sites.’

Denis :
‘We combined our dining tent with the kitchen to be together with staff and get warmth from the stove. But kerosene smell is the big price for this humble comfort. Because it’s bad for your health. It’s as though I was smoking during all period that I spent in the tent.
We did some exercise – went by track to the glacier. We did some activity every morning, but in any case we lost part of our acclimatization and strength. I am afraid about it now.
It was a difficult moment of the expedition. We were waiting 11 days in Base Camp just for the decision to start. With hope and doubts. At first we rested, bad weather was coming later, forecast was looking not clear, again snowfall… But today morning we got blue sky above Nanga Parbat. And we felt something in the thin air… the smell of challenge. It’s better than kerosene.
We decided to start tomorrow for the summit attempt. Gas, food, equipment – everything is ready. Now it is just up to our legs and mind. We hope.’

Karl Gabl:
The main axis of the Jetstream is still situated in Southern Pakistan (westerly component) and over Nepal in a South-westerly direction. 


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